As headlines of air strikes and grim conversations of imminent war darken our thoughts let us seek solace in the meditative hills in the cooling heights of Shillong in Meghalaya state. It's an idyllic way, to disconnect from awful headlines, depressing screens, rising summer temperatures and polluting environs, to abandon yourself to the charms of Nature’s endless bounty.

Back in the day, not many of you may be aware Shillong was the capital of the Assam Province under the British in September 1874, and remained so till January 1972. This massive tea growing state, with great reluctance, witnessed how Meghalaya, a new state in the Indian Union, was carved out of it, taking the beautiful hill station with it.

With the cease of the Anglo-Khasi War of 1826-1830, the British had a grip, both direct and indirect, over the Khasi-Jaintia Hills. In 1866, they shifted the colonial government from Sohra (Cherrapunji) to Shillong. Transformed into a garrison town for the British, Shillong very quickly became a summer retreat for the colonists and their families. Homesick for England they found solace in the misty heights, the chilly winter winds and beautiful environs of Shillong, which increasingly reminded them of the Scottish Highlands. The construction of bungalows with pretty gardens, public parks, schools, churches and colonial-style government buildings, all added to the rich atmosphere of this small slice of England here in India’s North East. 

As you wander through town those colonial vibes still ooze from every corner.  Though the citizenry even today reveals those Western influences, the strong sense of rootedness in the native culture remains as robust as ever. A great way to explore the natural charms and heritage sites of this historic hill town is to sign up for the beautifully curated 3-hr Shillong Heritage Walk exploring its buildings, architecture and parks of this capital township of Meghalaya’s Khasi Hills region.

The gardens and lakes, the beautiful forest trails and the Golf Course are some of the hill town’s most charming leisure hubs. There’s even a privately run Butterfly Museum near the Christian Academy School in the Riatsamthiah neighbourhood. Present day Shillong has gained quite a reputation as a music hub and for its café culture. The Shillong Choir has travelled the world and the music shows and jam sessions liven up the nightlife of the hill town, which has a growing youth population.

Located near Raj Bhawan, Ward’s Lake, locally referred to as Nan-Polok, is a scenic spot where locals and visitors mingle, enjoying its tranquil vibe. Beautifully laid out with tiny islets and connecting bridges and a pretty parkland, Ward Lake offers all year-round diversions like boating, feeding of the fish in its serene waters and ambles in the verdant grounds by the lake side.

The Botanical Garden in Shillong offers a splendid showcase of Meghalaya’s astonishing floral diversity. A spot not to be missed here is the orchid house with its amazing collection of rare and endangered species. The Botanical Garden plays a pivotal role in preserving the unique flora of the region.

Shillong’s beautiful Golf Links take inspiration from their Scottish roots. Set up in 1898 by the British Civil Service Officers this verdant expanse is surrounded by stately pine trees.

Were you aware that the Shillong Golf Course is recognised by the Guinness World Records as one of the oldest and finest courses in Asia?

Visitors can pay a day membership fee and enjoy a lovely round of golf on this 18-hole golf course. It's best to book a game in advance at the office of the Shillong Golf Club, as this heritage golf course is a very popular outdoor sport amongst the locals. 

The area beyond the expanse of the actual course itself is also a magnet for picnickers and walkers. Lots of eateries have mushroomed along the outskirts, some of which even have outdoor seating options. It’s a lovely spot in the summer days and autumn season.

The approach to the pretty waterfall, the Spread Eagles Fall, now also known as Umkaliar and Sati Falls, allows for a nice drive along the outskirts of the town through the serene Shillong Cantonment area. The waterfall is simply lovely when it comes into its own in the beginning of the rains.

Elephant Falls, also called Kshaid-Lai-Pateng in the vernacular, can be also found along the fringes of town. This is another favourite picnic spot for the locals. The crystalline waters dropping down in three tiers down the mountainside is a spectacular sight. You can walk along the railed walkway which follows the course of the cascades from the top to the bottom, where they end in a pretty knee-deep pool in which you can wade around. The elephant-shaped rock, which initially gave the falls their name by the British, was destroyed during an earthquake over a hundred years ago, so don’t go looking for it.

Shillong has long been a wonderful educational hub for decades on end. Amongst the top schools here is the Don Bosco School. A magnet for both locals and visitors is its excellent initiative—the setting up of the Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures. The seven-storied structure comprises a museum, a research centre and a publication centre for conserving and showcasing the rich cultural heritage of India’s northeastern states.

Do take time to browse through the exhibits, such as cultural artefacts, weaponry, costumes and ornaments, musical instruments, on display in the numerous galleries. Also located here are well-researched sections on India’s neighbouring countries, Bhutan, Myanmar, and Nepal. The Pre-history Gallery offers an excellent insight on the origins and migrations of the tribes in the region.

Established long before the arrival of the British, the Lewduh Market is the biggest bazaar in the North East. It was the economic heartbeat of the Hima Shillong-Nongskeh kingdom, touching the lives of the communities of Meghalaya’s Khasi and Jaintia hills.  It is believed to have existed in Nongkseh centuries ago before it shifted base in colonial times, to its present spot near Motphran. The market played an important role in the development of the garrison town for the Brits. 

The traditional market offers an exceptional insight in the matriarchal society (in which descent and inheritance are traced through the female line rather than the father's) of the Khasi and Jaintia hills communities and the significant role women play in household and community affairs. It’s a formative place to unravel how history, cultural and social exchange, commerce and livelihood have shaped the lives of the women who largely run this market.

The rains come early in the North East states and you will be highly tempted to extend your days in the hill station to welcome the start of the monsoons in all their majesty. The rhythmic sound of the raindrops falling on the red tin roofs will lull you to blissful slumber without the aid of any sleeping pills. 

It’s that time of year also, when the plenitude of rain transforms the waterfalls all around town into a roiling turbulent mass of liquid crystal, tumbling down mountainsides; even the numerous thin rivulets of the summer days become frisky rivers joyfully skipping down hillsides like school boys rushing out of class when school breaks.

Travel a short distance of 56km from Shillong to Sohra, previously known as Cherrapunji, and enjoy the spectacular showcasing of its waterfalls along the way. Were you aware that Meghalaya’s Mawsynram Village has stolen away Cherrapunji’s reputation as the wettest place in India? 

Check out these grand waterfalls: the Nohsngithiang/Seven Sisters Falls drop from a height of 315m, making it one of India’s highest waterfalls in the country. A viewing deck on the roadside offers spectacular views of the seven streams of the falls tumbling down the limestone cliff. The 340m-high Nohkalikai Falls, dropping from a height of 340m, is the highest plunge waterfall in India. A mini-Niagara in the making in the rains the semi-crescent-shaped Dainthen Falls is linked to a local legend of a mythical serpent, Dainthlen, who was vanquished by a local hero, U Kiang Nangbah.